critical review: the death of coachella, chanel, & playful bitchiness
mourning the loss of indie sleaze, ripping chanel's resort collection a new one, & reviewing the 'what not to wear' reboot
It’s time to be opinionated.
There’s too much going on in the fashion/media sphere for me to keep my big trap shut, so I’m introducing this series (or segment) (or spin-off) called: “critical review.”
This will essentially be a type of newsletter where I yap about various hot topics, share my brutally honest opinions, and *hopefully* not burn any bridges in the process.
I can only guarantee 2 out of the 3. Oops
Let’s get into it.
Coachella: The Good, The Bad, and the Benson Boone
I’m officially pronouncing Coachella to be dead. At least Coachella as we know it. Sorry, it’s over.
It’ll never have the same chokehold on society that it once did. With the extinction of indie/rock music, the rise of influencers, and the prominence of brand deals, Coachella has essentially evolved into one giant Revolve getaway.
Either influencers are there dressed like they are going to a rave (which is not the vibe of the festival IMO) or they are desperately trying to make ‘indie sleaze’ happen again, which is simply impossible. Kate Moss at Glastonbury continues to serve as the unattainable blueprint.
I didn’t follow the festival TOO closely this year, seeing as I no longer have a jar full of pennies labeled “Coachella Fund” like I did in 8th grade.
I did, however, see some fits that I have to comment on. Tongue cannot be held. I’ll start with the positives:
Best Look Award: Clairo
She does it again. Clairo wore a pink skirt from All-In, sheer lace-trimmed Clever Disguises shirt, and vintage satin Dior bra for her Weekend 1 set. Her stylist Nancy Kote has been killing it lately. From the polka dotted Miss Claire Sullivan look at the Grammys, to this, Clairo has playing with draping, ruching, and mismatched fabrics in a way that’s both extremely feminine and punk. I’d love to see her wear Dilara Findikoglu.
Other Good Stuff
Addison Rae (refuse to call her just “Addison,” sorry) wore a custom Pink underwear that announced the date of her new album —very cheugy yet charming.
Jennie’s off-duty look was pretty effortlessly cool. She nailed the IDGAF vibe. Wondering if she was just walking around blind wearing those sunglasses at night, though…
Charli XCX wore a pretty “regular-person” / kind of hideous outfit off-duty, but that’s why I like it. It genuinely looks like she just threw stuff on her body (like me going to the grocery store) and walked out the door. And that’s what I want from Coachella at this point. I’m sick of seeing people trying so hard in an environment where you’re expected to use a port-a-potty. [I know celebs aren’t using a port-a-potty, but they definitely want people to think they are… so they should dress like it.]
Maria Zardoya looked Kate Bush-level ethereal on stage in her custom Alexander McQueen dress (SS 2025).
The Bad Stuff (Ewe)
Japanese Breakfast singer Michelle Zauner looked like live-action Toad from Mario in a horrifying unreleased cut of ‘Mario: The Elizabethan Era’ the film.
Tyla has a great body, so she can wear anything she wants and never truly look bad. Her Coachella performance fits were a bit too “Christina Aguilera’s reheated nachos” (as the kids say) for me.
Charli D'amelio is basically a child, so I’m not going to rip on her too hard. But this girl is way too famous to be dressed frumpy at Coachella. Her stylist gets an F.
Unfortunately, I cannot seem to escape Benson Boone —does anyone like this guy? I wish he would just do backflips in the comfort of his own home… because I don’t want anything to do with this. His outfits aren’t even the worst, but they feel so disingenuous on his body. I’m not buying what he is trying to sell. He’s giving a level of try-hard that hasn’t been displayed since Bradley Cooper’s Maestro Oscar campaign.
Fashion Shows: Chanel’s Sleepy Resort Collection + Ralph Lauren Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear
Chanel Resort 2026
The lackluster show took place at Lake Como —a beautiful backdrop for an unworthy-ish collection. Under the direction of the Chanel team, (no single creative director), this show had a surprising amount of looks that upstaged whatever Virginie Viard has been pumping out since 2019. I don’t blame the Chanel team for the downfall of the house, as they were working within the current “vision” they’ve been given. That being said, it wasn’t exciting.
I’m not sure who the Chanel customer is anymore. A Chanel girl is…the mother of the bride? The flower girl at the wedding? The uptight bride? Looks range from stiff, to cheap, to strangely un-vacation friendly.
Resort? I don’t think so. The real Chanel is lost at sea.
Matthieu Blazy has some small shoes to fill, so I hope he’s ready to squeeze. I’m hopeful for a new era of Chanel —one that puts it back in the conversation. One that doesn’t make my eyes pop out of my skull when I see their prices. One that makes their position on this chart not so chuckle-inducing:
Ralph Lauren Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear
Now, for a change of pace —this Ralph Lauren show was impressive. Many of the pieces played into the ever-popular, impending ‘Nosferatu Fall.’ An appropriate mix of feminine western/bohemian-style looks and beautifully structured suiting, I honestly wouldn’t be surprised if we see some of these at this year’s Met Gala, being that the dress code is “Tailored for You.”
I particularly loved the draping on a number of these pieces. The whole collection felt as if it took all the best aspects from vintage styles and repackaged them with a modern twist. 9/10 for me.
Playful Bitchiness is Being…Denounced?
If you haven’t heard, dynamic duo Stacy London and Clinton Kelly have once again joined forces to help fashion victims dress better… or in this case find their personal style.
As a kid in the early 2000s, I was glued to What Not to Wear, the TLC reality classic that balanced tough love with total transformations. The surveillance footage, ruthless closet purges, and that infamous 360-degree mirror? Iconic. The witty jabs and sharp style critiques weren’t just entertaining —they were formative for an elementary school girl. The show didn’t just shape how I saw fashion; it taught me the power of playful bitchiness and pointed criticism.
Yes, What Not to Wear was absolutely a product of its time — born in an era when tabloids made a sport out of tearing down celebrities for simply leaving the house in sweats. And while it could easily be lumped in with that toxic culture, I’d argue the show’s intentions were ultimately sincere: helping people build confidence through style. It wasn’t perfect, but it wasn’t mean-spirited either.
The new series, Wear Whatever the F You Want, opens by distancing itself from the original format —promising a “makeover of the makeover show.” Style without rules, self-expression without apology.
If we’re calling this a reboot, it’s basically Queer Eye…but if Tan France actually knew anything about stying. Oops! It’s basically feel-good fashion therapy, helping people dial into their fantasy selves and wear what they've always wanted, but never felt bold enough to try.
The concept is cute. It’s clearly a different show than the original, but with fashion criticism basically on life support right now, I can’t help but feel like we’re missing tough love and yes, playful bitchiness. Maybe it’s just me, but I’ve said it before (I even wrote a whole newsletter on it): fashion criticism is dying. Everyone’s too afraid to offend, and the result is a lot of watered-down commentary that says nothing at all.
Do I think they should be ruthlessly roasting people? Not exactly. But I do think fashion lends itself to being made fun of in lighthearted way, so it feels a bit disappointing to see this new iteration denounce all the things I loved about the original. Speaking for myself, I’m starved of this kind of fashion-related content (which is why I try to create it myself).
And to be completely honest, some people REALLY should be gifted a set of rules to follow when it comes to style. Just saying.
All of that being said, I am going to continue to watch the show, because I love Stacy and Clinton. Even if they aren’t throwing people’s ugly clothes into a literal trashcan, I can still appreciate it for what it is!
Positivity Reset: What I’ve Been Loving
Gap has me in a proper chokehold. Here’s everything I’ve recently bought:
Here is everything I am… considering pulling the plug on in my cart. My willpower grows weaker by the day.
Thank you for reading & being a part of the club. Let me know if you enjoy this round-up type of newsletter from me!
If you enjoy ‘it’s critical.’ please like, comment, share, broadcast on a billboard, or maybe even tattoo the logo on your inner thigh.
Can’t get enough?
cherry espresso? the unexpected color combo you need on your body ASAP
I’ve finally pulled myself away from playing Super Mario Sunshine long enough to put virtual pen to paper for this week’s newsletter.
i hate spring shopping
Nothing dulls my spirit more than walking into a store, eyes all aglow, ready to shop, and seeing… THIS:
(not your average) spring aesthetics
Hello everyone —if you’re reading this, it means I’ve finally double-checked my spelling of aesthetics in the title enough times to feel comfortable publishing.
Hi Emilee! That white skirt on you 🫶🦢! What size did you go with and what size are you usually? Thank uu!
I LOVED What Not to Wear back in the day! It really helped me figure out how to style my body, although it hurt to see some people’s quirkiness get quashed. I would watch the new show, but don’t want to give A* any of my money.
I’m also starved for actual critique, and loved this article, start to finish!💕 Thank you, Emilie, stay snarky!