tyler mcgillivary does whimsy for realists

a review of TMG's first runway show & observations about NYFW

New York Fashion Week (NYFW) should really be called “New York Fashion Month,” because it feels like forever…all the time…

It’s the event equivalent of a psychedelic trip —every 5 minutes feels like 2 hours (sometimes derogatory, sometimes complimentary).

While I love following the latest shows, trends, and collections, trying to play catch-up is often overwhelming, especially when you realize you’ve spent hours sifting through looks you’ll never think about again.

I’ve lost valuable moments of my life looking at the latest Chanel collection (with no creative director, might I add) trying to pinpoint why it isn’t exactly good, but somehow way better than anything Virginie Viard has produced in the past 5 years.

We used to have McQueen shows, for God's sake!!!

And I’m here doing math problems in my head to figure out if something might not be like… “so bad.” Even the shows (allegedly) producing the latest and greatest trends don’t feel all that important to me.

Sure, the Tory Burch show had some interesting colorways and another avenue for us to keep dressing up sweatpants, but I’m not going to sit here and pretend I would ever wear a brooch like this:

Be real. The second I get to the office, I’m ripping off both layers.

I’m still convinced that Tory Burch made a deal with the devil to illicit THIS much hype and praise around her last two shows. They aren’t bad by any means, but the constant buzz and only positive media coverage feels equivalent to the confusion I felt at the Golden Globes when Emilia Pérez kept winning every single award —sheer bewilderment.

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Tyler McGillivary, A Lesson in Loud Nuance

Despite my constant cynicism, this newsletter isn’t about what I don’t like. It’s about a little brand called Tyler McGillivary (TMG) which debuted its first show at NYFW 2025.

Of course, it’s exciting when major fashion houses WOW us with a magical collection that becomes seared into our brains, but I’d argue it’s just as thrilling when a small, up-and-coming designer makes headlines the way TMG did a couple of weeks ago.

Tyler McGillivary is a brand I’ve followed for quite some time.

Founded in 2018, their literal depictions of nature in the form of photorealism have always been refreshing to me, similar to Fashion Brand Company. There’s a fine line between looking like a hokey Red Bubble design and a campy, on-the-nose yet subtly stylized piece of wearable art. TMG manages to gracefully fall into the latter.

I want it all

To the untrained eye, these designs may look like someone simply slapped a photo onto a dress or tank top, but it’s much more nuanced and stylized. You can tell they’ve carefully thought about the best silhouette, imagery, and color scheme for each piece in a way that would genuinely reflect the interested party’s aesthetic.

• Horse Girl Skirt — Reminiscent of Chloe S/S 2001 pants, neutral browns, silky midi

• Tomato Tote — Garden chic, tomato girl, giant functional bag with 3 simple colors (red, white, green)

• Orca Tank — Thick sleeveless top, slightly cropped, blue reminiscent of 90s Sea World merch for tomboys or something you’d wear on an elementary school field trip

• Venus Fly Trap Tank — Slightly longer tank, dark, more mature yet still playful

• Swan Dress — Shy but sexy, tight, body-hugging, exposes calves, a bit more mature

• Flower Dress — Full maxi, playful + sweet, pink petals, extremely girly print & silhouette

I’ve always thought of them as a brand that does “whimsy for realists” — using clothing to paint realism in an ethereal, almost fantastical light by playing around with scale, color, print, and concept.

It’s clothing for people who want to wear what they like… literally. Tomatoes. Horses. Carnivorous plants. Vintage vases. You name it. But the context in which these items exist (on your body) allows them to transcend into a beautiful dream.

“Now I am become interest, wearer of horse.” — J. Robert Oppenheimer

TMG Takes NYFW

Tyler McGillivary’s NYFW debut, a “Date Night” inspired collection, carried the brand’s signature blend of realism and whimsy while shifting focus from nature to the quintessential New York iconography. It drew inspiration from Party Girl, ‘90s Todd Oldham runways, and, of course, Sex and the City—a reference that never seems to fade.

Kiss prints, hot pink fur, strappy heels, and sexy little handbags made things eu so flirty and fun —a real Valentine-esque display that was perfect, given the timing.

Models didn’t just wear the clothes; they embodied them. They strutted and dashed onto the runway with the chaotic charm of Jenna Rink in 13 Going on 30—a little scattered, lost in romance, yet ready to take on the world.

"I imagined walking around Chinatown or going to your favorite stores and just seeing this sort of continuous neon signage, yellow taxi cabs, red tablecloths at little Italian restaurants, the green of a martini's olive. The collection is built on these very basic building block colors of New York.

It's all about one of those nights that you just start getting drinks with somebody, and as the night continues, you find yourself wandering home at 4:00 a.m. with your shoes in your hand.” —Tyler McGillivary

Though the pieces were a pivot from its typical nature-focused themes (this time embodying concrete city girl), the quintessential TMG DNA was all over by way of screen-printed pieces, girly details, and tight-fitting baby tees.

My absolute favorite piece is the taxi mini skirt. I would probably style it the exact same way with a black top and black knee-high boots. Incredible.

Hot Child in the City

The entire collection managed to look positively cohesive despite moving into completely different colorways, silhouettes, and prints —something that even some giant fashion houses fail to do nowadays.

The baby blue + red palette is scratching and itch I didn’t know I had.

Sheer accessories—tights, knee-high socks, and gloves—added a delicate contrast to the collection’s bold colors and statement prints. The styling felt intentionally chaotic, layered with meaning rather than excess.

The addition of tights, brooches, and scarves evoked the familiar rush of getting ready for a date—the moment when you’ve spent too much time perfecting one detail and suddenly have to throw everything on at once, hoping it all comes together in a perfectly undone way. Brilliant.

[The show was styled by Chloe Felopulos. You can watch her full YouTube video of her months-long process here.]

I’m glad we finally got a NYFW show that makes me FEEL something. There were way too many shows this season that made me feel the same way I do when I see Dua Lipa on a red carpet… like I’m looking at air (derogatory).

The leopard looks are very Fran Fine & the sheer dress reminds me of Kate Moss’s naked dress.

Empire crown is to die for.

TMG, Be Mine?

Final thoughts? This collection wasn’t just exciting—it was a reminder of why I care about fashion in the first place.

In a sea of tired luxury houses and overhyped (meh) labels, it’s independent designers like TMG that are keeping the industry alive with real passion, vision, and creativity.

I can’t wait for these garments to drop later this year (so I can get my hands on that taxi skirt). It’s proof that when up-and-coming designers are given the platform to show at NYFW, magic happens. We need to celebrate and support brands like this—the ones pushing boundaries, taking risks, and making clothes that actually make you want to get dressed.

Like reading about the “industry?” Want more honest critiques? Check out these relevant pieces from the ‘it’s critical.’ #archives. Love you all.