Tote-ally Luxurious? Summer's Most Humble Bag Doubles as a High Fashion Staple
How the L.L. Bean 'Boat and Tote' gave rise to luxury collabs, cheeky remixes like the Boatkin™, and underwhelming high fashion lookalikes.
Summer is approaching faster than: Vogue publishing which designer each celebrity was wearing on the Met Gala carpet…Oh wait. They’re still working on that?
Nevermind!!
Anyway, summer is (basically) here, which means there is a surplus of giant, modest bags for sale. Totes, if you will —the most modest of all bags, unless you count the ever-popular paper bag, though kind of try-hard if you ask me.
Practical. Utilitarian. Spacious. And luxurious? Hmmm.
Yes, let me explain. Here’s the rundown:
The L.L. Bean Boat and Tote has been a humble staple of tote culture, prep culture, and beach culture since 1965, when the brand decided to add a pop of color to its classic 1944 Ice Carrier Bag. Fast-forward to the present day—the Boat and Tote is now one of the most popular bags to ever exist. It’s iconic. You know it.
It’s a classic. It’s a “lightning in a bottle-type” bag in that it transcends class, culture, and style identities. Gwyneth Paltrow. Chloë Sevigny. Sarah Jessica Parker. The 40-year-old soccer mom at the beach with her 4 kids. It doesn’t matter who you are, this bag knows no limit. Basically, it's the answer to world peace.
Depending on the size, the price ranges from $29.95-$44.95. And you can monogram it. The Boat and Tote is like a bag version of a Stanley Cup—customizable, reliable, durable, and now trendy.
Now, introducing: Tibi x L.L. Bean The Re-Imagined Boat and Tote™.
Already sold out by the time I’m writing this [apologies to my sad little affiliate link—clown energy over here], this gorgeous bag is a collab between contemporary luxury brand Tibi and L.L. Bean, priced at $475. It perfectly marries the classic features of the original Boat and Tote with Tibi’s signature #pragmatic essence. Simple, but standout. Structured yet casual. The leather belt detailing is half nonsensical, half arguably utilitarian, as it has a keyring attached for, you know, hanging things.
If you want an actual review, Hanna Flanagan wrote one for The Cut here.
[It’s also strikingly similar to the OSOI Brocle Bag that I’m a bit obsessed with…and may for may not be my next bag of choice.]
Do I want one? Yes.
But what does it mean when a practical bag, once used to transport ice, now costs $500, or more in some cases? The new collaboration, though it’s price point is 1000% more than the original, is actually less durable—made from 100% cotton, rather than heavy-duty canvas.
The original bag was never about fashion—but now, ironically, that's exactly what makes it fashionable, spurring spinoffs from all kinds of luxury brands. Every line needs its version of a Boat and Tote. Accessibility is now transformed into exclusivity. Once again, consumerism has fetishized the mundane.
And it doesn’t stop there.
The Plot Thickens: The Boatkin™
If you thought the Wirkin (Walmart Birkin) was the ultimate amalgamation of working class goods + luxury design, you thought wrong. Introducing: The Boatkin™
Dreamed up by the beachy brand Hathaway Hutton, the Boatkin™ is a tongue-in-cheek mashup of high fashion and utility, merging the iconic flap top, lock closure, and metal feet of the Hermès Birkin with the sturdy shape, color-blocking, and webbed straps of L.L. Bean’s Boat and Tote.
“The Boatkin™ is a super fun super niche super useful tote bag that you can spill an entire nitro cold brew in and not have one ounce of guilt about it.” —Hathaway Hutton
Yes, the guilt-free bags are made of recycled canvas, meaning no two are exactly the same. Some of them are even complete with one-of-a-kind water stains, sharpie marks, and (my favorite) dirt. The price, though cheaper than a regular Birkin is still $1580. The Tibi collab is looking pretty affordable right about now.
As secondhand as it may be, I’d be pretty upset spilling coffee on anything I paid a full month’s rent for.
In all seriousness, this is an extremely clever idea. Typically, luxury brands collab-ing with middle-class ones to produce ironic designs seems to be the standard formula nowadays. I quite like the idea of smaller retailers creating parodies of luxury items, using literal scraps. Sustainability is hot.
I’m curious to see if Hermès CEO Axel Dumas will catch wind of these. He was famously not a fan of the Wirkin, noting:
"It's difficult to know what, exactly, to think about it apart from the fact that it irritated me — annoyed me.”
While this iteration certainly isn’t a dupe, per se, I wonder if he holds the same level of “annoyance” for any Birkin equivalent, especially since this one is specifically marketed as such—fit with a trademark nonetheless.
On the topic of dupes/copyright upsettedness (yeah, I made that word up), L.L. Bean actually sued a company called 4imprint Inc. earlier this year for selling a "confusingly similar" tote bag—though the suit was dismissed last month with no clear reasoning.
Interestingly enough, I’ve come across a variety of tote bags sold by brands like Gap, Lands’ End, and Mark and Graham that are strikingly similar to the L.L. Bean Boat and Tote—more similar than the 4Imprint dupe.
Middle Class Brands: Can I Copy Your Homework? Yeah, Just Change It Up a Bit
Any brand a classic southern Karen would shop, you best believe they have their own, almost exact replica of a the classic Boat and Tote. Their method usually consists of slapping a label on it, making it more expensive than the original, and voila. Great bags. Beautiful bags. Original bags.
No shade to Gap & Ralph Lauren —they at least tried to switch it up.
Buzzy brands like Chamberlain Coffee and Glossier also created their own versions, acting more as branded merch than anything else. The Glossier Utility Bag is a bit more stylized with their logo placement —not sure if this is a coveted item/proof of purchase for preteen girls (almost like Victoria’s Secret’s PINK bags were back when I was in middle school), but it really gives off that vibe. Or maybe I just can’t imagine a grown adult buying this $55 plain, branded tote.
A $30 Bag Walked, So a $1500 One Could Run
The popularity of the Boat and Tote has given way to luxury brands also taking a stab at their own canvas tote—priced anywhere from $300-$3500. What makes me giggle, is that most of these bags are still made from canvas, AKA the same humble material as the original L.L. Bean version. I guess slapping some insanely tacky Tiffany & Co signage makes it worthy of a $400 resale price. Some of them aren’t SO bad, though… right? Right?!?!
Leather accessories are often added to elevate the tote from “just another” canvas bag, but some of the sheer laziness associated with these designs flabbergasts me. Like, most of them are literally just uglier versions of the original with a giant price tag slapped on.
I’ve chosen to highlight the luxury canvas totes that fix the #relaxed vibe, (generally), two toned palette, and complete handle straps of the original L.L. Bean one. And yes, I am deliberately not including The Tote Bag by Marc Jacobs, because I feel it’s operating on a completely different level than the Boat and Tote—a level I’m not a fan (personally), but a level nonetheless.
Celine Horizontal Canvas Logo Tote (eBay: $1315) —This one reads pretty tacky to me, even though I love Celine with all my heart. I’ll take “The laziest piece of Celine merch for $1300, Alex!”
Hermès Twill H Garden Party 36 (TheRealReal: $3445) — Would you believe me if I told you the Garden Party came out a year before the original L.L. Bean Ice Carrier was remarketed as the Boat and Tote? Maybe the Boatkin doesn’t fall too far from the…Hermes apple tree. This bag is classy, elevated, a simple. [Read about the history here].
Hermes Canvas Bora Bora PM Tote (Vestiaire Collective: $384) —A bit more slouchy and relaxed, the Bora Bora Tote is a closer iteration to the classic L.L. Bean bag. It was actually officially named the "Cheval Surprise" when it debuted as a special edition bag in Hermes’s Spring/Summer 2004 collection. The bag was a collaboratve effort with Martin Margiela who designed it. The more you know!
Tiffany & Co. Canvas Tote (TheRealReal: $409) —This one is just ugly. Sorry, Tiffany Blue and off-white are two colors that need to stay divorced.
Chloe Woody Tote (Bergdorf Goodman: $1290) —I quite like the calf leather trim and how structured it is. When styled the “Chloe way,” it makes sense, although I’m still not a giant fan of logo mania.
Jacquemus Men's Grosgrain Messenger Tote Bag (Bergdorf Goodman: $735)—The black & white contrast stitching is intriguing, though I’m not convinced this is a “messenger bag.” It’s lacking the characteristic flap. It’s a glorified canvas tote with interesting hardware. Nice try. It’s simultaneous doing too much and also note enough.
Balenciaga Leather-Trimmed Two-Tone Canvas Tote (Net-a-Porter: $1800): The canvas + leather tote is an edgier version of the original style—boat tote for someone who hates the beach!
Balmain Canvas Tote (TheRealReal: $620): The lovechild of a boat tote + a Longchamp Original Tote, it’s giving burlap sack chic.
Louis Vuitton Cabas Antigua Canvas Tote Bag (Saks: $794): This 2006 limited edition bag is Louis Vuitton’s spin on the classic —adorned with gold studs, a and a metal plate. Big fan of the blood orange + off white combo.
Comme Des Garcons Off-White Cotton Canvas Tote (SSENSE: $580): It’s humble, not as big at you’d think though. The carrying handle at the face + the long strap is what makes it “different.” Overall, not super impressed.
Totes Innovative: Who Has the WOW Factor?
Listen, I won’t sit here and act like the aforementioned luxury totes were anything special. Aside from the Hermes Garden Party, I felt an overwhelming sense of blandness during the research process that frankly, disappointed me. But it’s time for #positivity corner. Per usual, I must balance my disgust with equal parts optimism, because it’s important to be critical, but not a full-blown Negative Nancy.
Here are some designer totes I find either particularly innovative or generally attractive. Brands that actually seem to give a damn.
JW Anderson Beige & Black Belt Tote (SSENSE: $380): I’ll tell you one thing about Jonathan Anderson —he is intentional. I know I said I dislike logo mania, but this feels right. Creating a oversized boat tote with scalloped edges, a belted handle, and an anchor brand logo is genius. All the elements perfectly mesh to create a playful, cohesive, clean bag.
Prada Enameled Metal Triangle Weekender Bag Large (TheRealReal: $372): The blue canvas creates a demin-esque effect that’s attractive when distressed. I can’t say I’ve witnesses this exact shape before in a canvas tote. It’s structured, yet slouchy. Humble, yet prideful.
Prada Enameled Metal Triangle Tote (TheRealReal: $388): Prada knows how to make off-putting vintage bags with the strangest color palettes, you never knew you needed. Complete with an electric green leather trim & handle, this tote is like if someone skinned Mike Wazowski (weird little guy) to make this tote (weird little bag).
Moncler Genius x J.W. Anderson Canvas Tote (TheRealReal: $275): Jonathan Anderson’s namesake brand + Italian luxury brand Moncler (known for their extreme puffer jackets & innovative outerwear) created this campy canvas tote. Stylized granola —this bag reminds me of the Wes Anderson film Moonrise Kingdom.
Polo Ralph Lauren Medium Polo Play Canvas Tote Bag (Saks: $328): Here’s an example of an elevated tote. The branding isn’t the star of the show, like some of the obnoxious bags we previously discussed —the shape is. The leather lining on the handles and all the way down references the classic boat tote while doing something completely different by acting as a bucket bag. Absolutely love this. It even comes in blue!
Goyard Goyardine Belharra 2022 (TheRealReal: $2785): Goyard has classic canvas totes with their signature all-over print, but the Belharra bag is the closest to a boat tote. With two modest turquoise straps that follow to the bottom, the bag has a disjointed-ness that I love. I like the idea of a chaotic beach tote —it has a personalized, lived-in feel.
Balenciaga Canvas Hardware Tote (TheRealReal: $405): From the Fall/Winter 2021 Collection by Demna, this tote is simple with black leather trim. It’s structured nicely. Nothing insanely interesting, but I like the simplicity. I find it more appealing than the other Balenciaga tote.
Prada Canvas Mistolino Floral Tote Large (TheRealReal: $408): We’ve shifted away from boat tote territory, but this needs to be discussed. This bag gives me “cool Prada grandmother” vibes in the best way. The satin floral appliqué design is quirky chic. I would happily carry this baby to the beach.
Hot Totes in the City
I attended Porch Fest in Atlanta this past weekend, where boat totes were running quite rampant. I haven’t perfected my nonchalant photography skills, but in the sea of young Atlanta natives cooking in the Georgia heat, I spotted many a tote (most not pictured).
From Ice Bags to IT Bags
At the end of the day, the Boat and Tote’s real power lies in its simplicity —and its sudden ability to shape-shift across fashion strata.
From $30 L.L. Bean originals to $3,000 luxury lookalikes, it’s clear that everyone wants in on the humble canvas carryall… because why not?
Some reinterpretations are clever. Some are chaotic. And some just scream, “I have disposable income and no imagination.”
But one thing’s for sure: if Summer 2025 has a mascot, it’s a tote bag with something to say —whether that’s “I’m effortlessly cool” or “I want you to KNOW this is designer.” Choose your fighter accordingly.
Let me know your favorite canvas tote in the comments!
Shop all the (new) totes mentioned in this newsletter HERE
I love this so much. My introduction to the Boat Tote was with my MIL bought the mini version for each of my kids so it's never felt like *fashion* to me. When the Tibi one released I was underwhelmed again. Now the Boatkin did pique my interest but I blame being too online right now.
That was very thorough and a fun read, Emilee, thank you! I'll stick with my cheap Indigo Books bonus-with-purchase "Cool Cats Read" tote, lol (yes, it's covered in cats). It seems very silly to spend so much money on a bag that probably cost under $100 to make.