is thrifting even worth it anymore?
confessions from two vintage shoppers & how ‘big thrift’ has altered the state of secondhand shopping in 2025.
In 2024, the parking lots of Goodwills across America are fuller than ever before.
Maybe you’ve thrifted for as long as you have had pocket change… or maybe you have only recently been convinced by fashion Substack to try thrifting as a more mindful shopping option.
Over Notes, your humble narrators (Emilee & Lili) noticed that we had similar feelings regarding the state of thrifting today. And with absolutely zero source material other than vibes, decided to have a conversation about it.
What started as a source of comfort, excitement, and self-expression has rapidly become a source of frustration, sadness, and *eye rolls.*
When did you first get “into” thrifting?
Lili: About 90% of my clothes growing up were hand-me-downs from my mom’s coworkers’ kids. Sustainable! But when I started making my own money as the cashier at a bakery at 15, going to Goodwill with my sister felt like freedom -- the first time I could choose for myself what to wear. After a lifetime of gently used clothes, I didn’t bat an eye at combing through other people’s at the thrift, especially given my $8/hr budget. I was into old movies and fashion from the 50s and 60s, and so thrifting provided an avenue to experiment with different styles than would have been available at Target (I was not allowed to darken the doorway of A&F or Hollister, lol). I also loved that I could buy something for cheap and take it home and alter it! I bought my dress for senior Cotillion (long story) for $6 at Goodwill, took in the waist at home on my sewing machine, and that was that.
Emilee: Most of my clothes (growing up) were hand-me-downs from my sister or something my mom snagged at a garage sale. Honestly, because of this, I yearned for new clothes of my “own,” as a teenager and almost resented having to go to secondhand stores with my mom. She would spend the longest time in there and I’d get bored after 10 minutes. I was a terrible hang.
It wasn’t until late high school that I started getting into fashion (via Tumblr) and thrifting. I would buy a lot of 80s-style clothes like colorful windbreakers and funky sweaters. While that’s not my style much anymore, when I’m thrifting now, I still tend to pull out vintage 80s pieces almost as a reflex.
Once I was in college, ALL I did was thrift. My parents moved to Augusta, GA right after I graduated high school, so I went to college there for my first 2 years (unfortunately). I was unbelievably bored, lonely, and had zero friends. Now, Augusta is a horribly unfun town filled with misery, but somehow (by the grace of God) it has THE best Goodwill in the country. It’s essentially a town filled with old people and #basic people. So, the old people donate their cool vintage clothes and the young folk just ignore it, because they couldn’t care less. They shop at boutiques, so fuck a Goodwill, right? All of the vintage clothes were basically just waiting there for me to scoop them up. And I did. As corny as it sounds, thrifting filled a void for me when I was pretty lonely. I’d say college was definitely when my love for it kicked into high gear.
How has your relationship with secondhand shopping evolved over time?
Lili: I think this is a pretty normal experience, but throughout college I almost exclusively thrifted my clothes. I also had roommates who were into thrifting and so going to Salvo was a fun Saturday studying break for us. The transition to using Depop and Poshmark was a natural one, but also kind of addicting because it is accessible all the time! Once I started selling the stuff that didn’t work out on Poshmark and Depop, that taught me better online bartering etiquette. I am sure I sent some truly offensive offers back then. Now I know better how to be respectful in those online environments, and it also ensures that I am only making fair offers on the things I truly want and am willing to pony up for.
As an adult with Real Job Money now, I have a more balanced relationship with secondhand shopping. In college and my first years of working, thrifting was kind of the same unintentional experience as meandering through Target and picking up another t-shirt or claw clip, just because it’s $5. I don’t think the 10 years of my life spent experimenting with clothes, especially used ones that might have been otherwise thrown away, were at all wasted. If I hadn’t taken a risk and tried to style different items for cheap, I wouldn’t have such a strong sense of what I like to wear and what is true to me now.
From a sustainability standpoint, I absolutely always try to find items for my closet and my house secondhand before I purchase them new. But I also know better the point at which I have done my due diligence in the search. I think about it as if I have a responsibility towards whatever I purchase, secondhand or new -- if I am going to use that item to its fullest potential, especially because I have been dedicated to searching for that specific item for months, then I am okay buying it new. Being an experienced thrifter has made me more selective regardless of how I shop.
Emilee: Shopping at secondhand stores more frequently made me appreciate clothes much more, even if they aren’t necessarily “my style.” This led me to eventually start my own Depop shop during COVID (like every other Gen Z person). I would basically buy any piece of clothing that looked cool or I saw potential in it. If it wasn’t “for me,” I’d sell it. Like Lili touched on, buying a bunch of cheap clothes and experimenting in this way also helped me hone my current personal style. I was able to go through tons of fits, colors, prints, etc. to determine what I was and wasn’t a fan of.
While this was very “overconsumption coded” and probably a shopping addiction disguised as bargain hunting, I don’t think I would be as knowledgeable about fashion or as confident about my personal style, had I not had the opportunity to play around in this way.
Where am I at now? Most of my clothes and probably 70% of my home decor/furniture are secondhand. I still love thrift shopping, but I’ll admit, it’s lost its luster. I don’t have the light in my eyes about it that I had 5 years ago. Inflated thrift prices paired with the fact that I have to actually pay bills in this economy (derogatory), it’s gotten too expensive for me to thrift shop regularly. Can you believe that’s a real, true statement? Thrift shopping is too expensive. Let it sink in. Things add up fast now, and most of the time, I can get a better deal and shopping experience buying new. It’s unfortunate, but that’s where I’m at now.
On a positive note, I am far more picky about what I bring into my closet when I’m thrifting now. I’ve become a more mindful shopper as a result, and that has ultimately saved me money in the long run. I’m buying more long-lasting basics that I intend to keep until I start wearing holes in.
When did you notice a “shift in thrift?”
Lili: I think my short answer here is 2020. The long answer is that this shift into the shittification of most consumer experiences, including thrifting, would have happened gradually with the creep of the Internet, but Covid expedited the process. Prior to the Internet, I am sure there were thrifty people out there who liked to go to thrift stores, but now we have thrift haul vlogs! If you were a girl in 2012 who liked to go to thrift stores, it was a solo hobby or a fun activity with friends. Post-Covid it is a twofold business, of not only documenting the experience of going to the thrift store, but then selling your finds on Depop. The variable reinforcement of sometimes finding a gem, the gamble that makes thrifting fun and rewarding, is condensed into a 3-minute video where the viewer only gets the thrill of the hits without any of the work.
I also think it would be wrong to dismiss two other factors: 1) greedflation and how expensive everything has gotten since Covid, and 2) Gen Z’s overall awareness of climate change. If the outcome of these videos is that thrifting is more popular because people realize the sheer volume of higher quality items out there and less goes to waste, that is a great outcome. But the online popularity of this content has made *certain* thrift stores self-aware, so as usual I think it is the companies themselves and not individuals that have made the overall experience worse.
Emilee: Mid-COVID. Secondhand shopping became trendy, people were turning to resale for extra money during the pandemic (including myself), and the sustainability movement was at its peak. Like any business, increased demand drives higher prices… but I guess I was naive to think that nonprofit thrift stores that get their inventory handed to them (literally) would take advantage of this. How naive of me. I actually clocked this shift at Goodwill in the form of Harley Davidson motorcycle boots. Pleased with my find, I quickly took a look at the tag, expecting to witness a proper “steal,” but I was just as quickly disappointed. $49.99. Insane. I was being pranked, right? When did Goodwill fancy themselves some sort of curated thrift shop? This was consignment store pricing. They aren’t supposed to be self-aware… Goodwill is not supposed to be privy to trends. This was just the beginning, when I started to have to tell myself “It’s not worth it.” I could get a better deal on Depop even WITH shipping costs.
It’s been nothing but a downward spiral since then. The joy I feel when finding a gem is ruined by the fact that Goodwill has beat me to it and already identified it as such with a hefty price tag. The act of grinning, putting it in my cart, and maybe even sending a picture to a friend is now replaced with eye-rolling, consideration, and ultimately placing it back on the rack.
And it’s funny, because they seem to understand the value of higher-quality items, but are somehow way off when it comes to cheap, low-quality pieces from Shein. Somehow a $4 (brand new) Shein top ends up being $7 secondhand. Jokes. Jokes everywhere. Selective self-awareness. The weaponized incompetence of Goodwill should be studied in schools.
What are your primary criticisms of larger thrift chains like Goodwill, and how do you think these issues have contributed to their “flop era?”
Lili: Sigh, so the rant begins. First of all, I think we shouldn’t collectively dismiss our responsibility here. In Phoenix, Goodwill is far and away the most ubiquitous thrift store. And so we treat it like this morally neutral-positive, not to mention convenient, black hole. Once I drive away from that drop-off line, the weight is lifted from my shoulders because all my crap isn’t being thrown away, it’s being reused! I am no longer responsible for it! We know this is far from the truth, and that most of what is donated to Goodwill is still thrown away, but at least we weren’t the ones committing such an environmental sin -- it was the people working at Goodwill! Offloading our environmental responsibility via donation is not a new problem, if you’ve watched the Brandy Melville doc, but it bears repeating.
That said, Goodwill fully knows what it’s doing, and making itself convenient to access is part of that. People are less likely to undertake the effort of reselling their nicer stuff if they are busy and there is a Goodwill right around the corner. And you know what Goodwill is doing? The work of re-selling that nice stuff that you weren’t willing to! Goodwill’s current business model is a little crazy, when you think about it. They spend $0 on merchandise, so other than paying for commercial space and paying employees, their profits have to be through the roof. It behooves them to be ubiquitous -- and therefore convenient.
Emilee: My frustration with Goodwill goes far beyond their pricing. Apologies for the long-winded rant that follows.
As the prices go up, the shopping experience has plummeted. Dressing rooms closed during COVID, which was understandable. The thing is, most Goodwill stores now no longer have dressing rooms AT ALL still. I’ve been to roughly 9 different Goodwill stores in the past 2 years (in Atlanta + Denver) and only one of them had an open dressing room. Not only do we have to pay more for clothes, but we don’t even have the option to make sure they fit unless we wanna strip down in the middle of the store. Why am I even shopping in person then?
At America’s Thrift Store (my new go-to since COVID), they also do not have fitting rooms. And you know what? That’s totally fine because their prices are so reasonable that I don’t mind taking the plunge. I can accept the fact that I have to set a mirror on top of a dresser and “try things on” in such a janky way (I have a system now) because if it doesn’t fit, I’m only out $3.
But at the one Goodwill store that does have a fitting room, you’d be hard-pressed to find any employee to unlock it for you. You’d have an easier time trying to whittle your fingernail into the shape of the key to get in. They should actually rename their store “Goodluck,” because it’s a Christmas miracle to find any sales associate to help you with anything at any store. The floor is completely void, which explains why no one is organizing the clothing by size (at most stores). I waste so much time having to look at each individual item because nothing is in size order. Racks are consistently overfilled to where I have to muster the strength of 1000 men to pry open enough space to catch a glimpse at the front of a shirt.
And the racks are never waxed. As a former retail associate (for 4 years of my life), I came to quickly understand the importance of a waxed rack and how this could make or break the shopping experience. You’d think every store ever would prioritize the ability for clothes to actually slide on a rack. It would be my dream to go to every Goodwill in the nation and introduce them to a piece of wax paper. And this whole “diss” isn’t even to be directed towards the employees themselves. No, this is a corporate issue. They’re clearly understaffed and taking advantage of COVID “perks.”
The moral of the story is that none of their money seems to be going toward enhancing the in-store experience for shoppers. And why would it? They’re getting away with it.
Lili: I forgot that that screeching metal-on-metal sound had a solution... I will say that having lived on the West Coast for a few years, the biggest difference in East vs. West Coast Goodwills is that clothing is generally sorted by size here, but also more expensive than I remember it being at home in North Carolina. But I see your complaints -- if Goodwill is going to act like a Big Box monolith with the goal of beating out other secondhand sources, the least they could do is invest in the customer experience.
What do you make of the popularity of online secondhand platforms like eBay, Depop, and TheRealReal? What factors do you think are driving this trend?
Lili: TRR is a little bit different for me because there is still a middleman processing the transaction -- and taking 90% of the resale value of the item for themselves. However, with eBay and Depop, the transaction takes place between you and another person. Thus more of the value is passed on to the buyer or the seller. It works on both sides. Most of the time, I really don’t mind buying from someone who thrifts as a side hustle and then upcharges their finds. If I think it’s a fair price for the item itself (based on material, brand, etc.) I consider it a finder’s fee. Time you don’t have to spend sorting through thrift racks is money! I think you have to spend a fair amount of time in the secondhand space to know what makes something a fair price (to the people who resell SHEIN on Depop, I think God is going to give you a raised eyebrow when you get to the pearly gates before letting you through), but I think increasingly people are willing to do that work. I don’t know if it’s a generational thing or climate change awareness, but I think an increasing number of young people don’t really care about having something brand new.
Emilee: It seems like almost everyone in the fashion community is shopping secondhand online now, aside from NYC closet sales & pop-ups here and there. I think the reasoning is mainly convenience, but also the fact that by only paying about $10 extra for shipping/fees, you have someone else doing the curation and you can shop from the comfort of your home. With thrift store prices on the rise, it’s become almost the same price to find the “perfect item,” rather than spending time trying to locate and manifest said item sifting through racks.
Despite the popularity, I still don’t shop secondhand online much. Occasionally, I’ll get items on Depop, but I’ve only ever bought one thing on TheReaReal and have never explored eBay aside from knowing all the words to the Weird Al song.
Heading into 2025, do you believe online thrifting will surpass traditional in-person shopping at thrift stores in terms of value and convenience?
Lili: For me, the answer is absolutely yes. I would rather give my money to another person! Plus, I think there is the impulse when thrifting to pick up things that you didn’t need before you walked into the store, whereas online you can be a little more intentional with your search terms, stay focused, and buy less. Maybe Depop recommends something to you in its “$20 and under” section on the home page, but we are so used to Prime free shipping that I personally give more pause to buying something online than I do in person. Goodwill might be changing that with its higher prices, lol. I am not saying this is a great thing, but I spend so much time online that thrifting from my bed is just factored into time I would have spent on my phone anyway. The convenience and allowance for more intentional shopping can’t be beat.
Emilee: I think online shopping in general is going to surpass in-person shopping, so my answer is yes—it’s looking that way. I’m actually going to counter Lili’s sentiment that shopping online is more intentional than in-person thrifting because I tend to have the opposite opinion [Although I do agree that it can vary from person to person]. When I’m shopping in person, I’m typically far more intentional, because I’m able to feel the item and (hopefully) try on said piece. I can see if it puckers at the armpit, if there is any discoloration, or if it’s a little too boxy for my taste. If it doesn’t fit perfectly, I scrap it. Now, when I’m shopping online, I tend to have an inflated view of what something will look like. I see it looking wonderful on the model/seller and that is my only basis. Only seeing the “good” in an item because the seller wants me to see it that way has caused me to make some (not a lot) of regretful secondhand purchases.
Having access to any piece of clothing you want (essentially) at the touch of a button allows people to give in to their impulsions. I know a bunch of people who have gotten into the habit of online shopping when they’re bored and just *tap tap tap* their way into a $200 bill… multiple times a month. Although in-person thrift stores are inflating prices, I think the online shopping craze is only extenuating overconsumption.
What changes would you like to see in the thrift shopping experience in 2025, and why?
Lili: I personally want to seek out more thrift stores outside of Goodwill in 2024, for both donation and shopping. As someone who works from home, sometimes leaving the house to go shopping is necessary to prevent myself from going Joker mode. And sometimes I am in need of items that are easier to thrift in person than online -- table linens, picture frames, storage baskets. Goodwill is easier to access, but given the infrequency with which I actually go shopping in person anymore, I think it is worth it to me to travel a little farther for potentially lower prices! So overall, I support a boycott of Goodwill, especially when, as Emilee pointed out, the in person shopping experience leaves so much to be desired. I am not above being petty!
Emilee: I would hope that Goodwill chills on its price gouging for a while and decides to put more emphasis on the consumer shopping experience. I am, however, working to phase them out, as there are much better thrift stores to give my money to. I honestly wish all big thrift stores would go back to being more affordable, but I know they can’t just lower their prices out of the blue. We’ll have to catch up with them. I much rather prefer shopping/thrifting in person, because the hunt is part of the fun for me. I love curating my closet over time, rather than looking online. My screen time is already through the roof with work and other distractions, the last thing I need is for my shopping experience to become solely virtual.
What does thrifting look like for you going forward?
Lili: I hope to spend less time shopping overall and more time living my life. The variable reinforcement aspect of thrifting, the thrill of sniping something on eBay can be very addicting, but I think I have done this for long enough that I know when to be selective and know when I actually have a great deal on something I very much want. And honestly, with the internet, it is easier to be selective. I am more patient, more thorough with my search terms, and that contributes to my buying less overall. I am not a perfect shopper yet, but when it comes to buying clothes for myself, I am getting there. One place I can see myself getting back into thrifting in person is when I have kids! They grow out of clothes so quickly anyway that I don’t feel the need to be quite as intentional and can have more fun with it. I have a few Hanna Andersson onesies I’ve come across here and there for 99 cents, and when you’re talking about a garment that a baby is going to have a blowout and throw up in, that’s a GREAT price that I would only be able to procure in person. The exception would be for a perfect toddler-sized OshKosh B’Gosh red corduroy overall -- then I will hand over money for the shipping cost.
Emilee: In general, I’m in the process of curating pieces that will last me until I die —seriously. I’m trying to be THAT intentional. I’m also in a phase in life where I cannot be shopping like I used to (thrifted or not). It was one of the biggest things I had to cut $$$ on when I started living on my own and the curbing of clothes buying has allowed me to save quite a bit… and cut down on the clutter.
I still have to go to America’s Thrift Store on a random Wednesday night, because it’s therapeutic to take my time looking through aisles, but as far as actually buying all of it… let’s just say my vetting process is a lot stricter than it used to be. I enjoy going to reasonably priced curated thrift stores like Ecologie Vintage in Atlanta. Places like this are a happy medium because I still get the searching high of going through racks, I can try things on, and the price is about the same as vintage online, but without the shipping fees. Win-win-win!
The U.S. secondhand apparel market reached an estimated value of $43 billion, with expectations to hit $73 billion by 2028 (𝐑𝐞𝐭𝐚𝐢𝐥 𝐃𝐢𝐯𝐞, 𝟐𝟎𝟐𝟒).
The state of thrifting is evolving, but certainly not slowing down.
If you enjoyed our little thoughts insights, leave a comment! What is your opinion on big thrift? How are YOU changing your habits? We’re interested to hear.
I also want to give a big thank you to my #piecepartner
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Thrifting in 2011-2012 was indeed the promised land. I moved to the west coast with two suitcases and furnished half my apartment at the Salvation Army thrift shop. Including a set of four made-in-France cobalt blue heavy glass tumblers which are still one of my favourite possessions. And my god, the clothes. Long hooded wool coats. Perfectly tailored pencil skirts that looked like they’d never been worn. The most amazing seafoam-green sweater which I stupidly gave away at some point.
Last time I went to a Salvation Army (a year ago), it was as you’ve described — a rack full of stained H&M tank tops for $10.
I shop a lot of secondhand online because the town I live in now has an abysmal thrift scene, but I do have to be careful about being realistic in my expectations for the item. I agree I don’t mind paying more because someone else has done the work — time is money and all that.
great conversation! I'm not interested in defending Goodwill specifically, which has a pretty gross history of underpaying disabled employees and I agree is less pleasant to shop at than ever, but I do think it's interesting the that the shift to fair market value pricing versus the old bargain basement model is met with such ire from consumers. If we believe secondhand goods are often superior quality (like the motorcycle boots), why do we expect to pay so little for them? I suppose a lot of it is just habit and a memory of cheaper thrift prices, but I do think it's worth considering how much that the influx of donations, particularly low quality fast fashion ones, increases the labor and waste disposal costs for thrift chains, even as it increases the supply of "free" merchandise. If you receive 100 carloads of stuff and a higher percentage of it is basically junk, that's just more labor hours of sorting and more money spent on hauling stuff away. A mint condition 80s leather jacket is literally more rare than it was 20 years ago, so it does make sense to me that prices reflect that
Totally agree that there are great thrifting experiences still to be had outside the major chains! I visited my partner's rural southern hometown and we went to a small shop run by a local animal shelter. We spent $20 total and each left with a gorgeous vintage London Fog coat as well as some books